Monte Mileto, October 7, 2012, Parco Nazionale Della Maiella

Crossing False Summits to Monte Mileto

After nearly two weeks of hardcore hiking, Monte Mileto provided a much-needed respite. Though a 6,000-footer peak hike, the trail follows modest grades the entire way and takes only a half day. After surviving a 12-hour day on the trail a few days before (in which we got lost and nearly ran out of water,) Monte Mileto was just the type of hike that we needed.

Most of the elevation is gained in the car, as the trail head departs from the ski area at Passo San Leonardo, a noted terminus for Maiella hiking trails. In Italy, we rarely encountered other hikers during the week. But Sundays are a different story. Fortunately, the Italian hikers all took a longer, more popular hike along the ridge to Monte Morrone. This left us alone on the ascent to Mileto.

A gradual grade track through a beech forest eventually emerges out of tree line. Cairns then mark the trail up and down several false summits before reaching Mileto proper, which is marked with a cairn and a painted rock with the very faint name and elevation painted on it.

K at False Summit 1, Amaro Range in Distance

From the peak, we expected to be able to see Sulmona but the vista is blocked by topography below the summit. The most dramatic views proved to be to the west, into the heart of the Majella National Park and the towering Amaro Range, the highest in the region.

Mileto summit indicator

Peak: Monte Mileto
Elevation: 1902 meters (6,240 feet)
Route: Up and back, via the recently renamed Q4 trail from Passo San Leonardo  
Distance: 7 km (4.5 miles) miles roundtrip
Conditions: Partly sunny, 55 degrees F

Orfento Gorge, October 5, 2012, Parco Nazionale della Maiella

In Caramanico Terme, a town of hotels and hot springs nestled in the center of the Maiella National Park, we enjoyed this short, 3 hour long hike into a gorge of the Orfento River. We found parking on a weekday fairly easily along a side street just south of the centro and walked to the other side of town to the park visitor's center, where one must register to enter the gorge. I guess this is so that they can keep track of unprepared and misguided tourists.

The people at the desk were very friendly and we had a good feeling as we left the building and made our way to the sign marking the entrance to the gorge, or gole. We have found these gorges to be a pretty standard geological feature throughout the Abruzzo.

The trail starts off on the south side of the gorge and consists of a trail along the edge of the mountainside with the river far below. In some places, like here, the trail is loose scree.

Only minutes from downtown Caramanico, the trail takes you into a very peaceful setting with vast vistas into the gorge below and the cliffs on the opposite side. Some points are not for the faint of heart, with steep drops to your left as the trail winds around boulders.

The midpoint for our hike was one of several bridge crossings of the Orfento River - the Ponte Vellone. Other options for trails are possible as indicated on the map of the Maiella National Park issued by Edizioni Il Lupo.

Unlike the first leg of the hike on the cliffs, the return section follows the river along the bottom of the gorge. A nice contrast.

Shadow portrait at the Orfento Gorge.

The return route follows the north side of the river through trees, but from time to time we were rewarded with dramatic views up to the cliffs above. There are a few options for returning to Caramanico. One is to follow this trail to a point where an auto road crosses above. There, the river becomes a spectacular waterfall and a trail leads up to the auto road via steep steps. We cut it short and used our map to find another route up, which led us past a series of pens housing a community of river otters, and back to the information office.

Monte Mattone, October 2, 2012, Riserva Naturale Regionale Monte Genzana Alto Gizio

Lunch on Mt. Mattone Summit

Though often overshadowed by the Dolomites, the south-central Italian region of Abruzzo affords splendid opportunities for hiking. K and I had been there before, in 2008, and marveled at the Apennine Mountains - the veritable "spine" of Italy that runs the length of the peninsula and encompasses a series of national and regional parks in Abruzzo. Sans gear, we settled for short walks to trail heads reachable by foot from Sulmona, our base of operations.

For this return trip four years later, we made sure to bring along the requisites needed to fully enjoy this rugged mountain land - boots, packs, poles, topo maps, and, most expensively, a rental car to fully access all of the trail heads.

One of our first peaks: Monte Mattone.

Departing Pettorano Sul Gizio

This hike starts off on a slight grade along an access road from the pretty town of Pettorano Sul Gizio - Gizio being the name of the river that runs below the town and, via an ancient irrigation system, sustains the agricultural pursuits of the entire valley. A pleasant uphill grade through olive groves and alternating along 4x4 tracks and wooded trails eventually emerges on a mountain meadow and the "Il Lago" refugio, an unmanned, no frills hiker's hut completed with a fireplace, picnic table, and fences to keep out the grazing sheep and cattle.

View of Mt. Mattone Summit, from Il Lago Refugio

From Il Lago, the summit of Mattone seemed simple enough to reach... but it took our last bit of pre-lunch energy to make it to the peak.

Il Pranzo alla Cima... Finalmente

The most difficult part of this hike, however, was the descent. For one, the open meadow below the summit had no cairns... Once we found it, the trail proved to be a steeply-pitched mule track, washed out at several points by scree falls and littered with pine cones that made footing unsteady. Once off the mountain, though, the trail becomes a pleasant stroll along the headwaters of the Gizio, past an old church, and back into Pettorano Sul Gizio.

Trail Marker for Il Lago

We had designs on being back in town for lunch at Il Torchio, a highly-lauded local restaurant in Pettorano. Thanks to a serious problem with guidebook that we used to find the hike, we underestimated the hiking time by 4 hours.

Peak: Monte Mattone
Elevation: 1,306 meters (4,285 feet) 
Gain: 900 meters (2,952 feet)
Distance: 12 km, 7.5 miles
Conditions: Sunny, 60 degrees F

 

Santo Stefano di Sessanio to Madonna della Pieta, October 1, 2012, Parco Nazionale del Gran Sasso

Located on the edge of the Camp Imperatore wilderness, a high elevation plain within the Gran Sasso National Park, Santo Stefano di Sessanio is a picturesque little hill town that serves as a great starting point for this moderate, 10 km loop hike with dramatic, sweeping vistas in all directions. Though relatively short with little elevation gain, it turned out to be one of our favorite hikes of the trip.

From a parking spot in the town center, we walked out of town through the pleasant wooded park seen above and then made our way up to a hill marked with a cross, or croce. We used the book, Walking in Abruzzo and the Gran Sasso park map by Edizioni Il Lupo as our guides.

From the cross, the route heads due east across open hillsides. From time to time, we came across red and white markers signifying a marked trail but one doesn't appear on the Gran Sasso park map. One of the many times when there was a disconnect between what is written and what is reality.

After reaching a low point and crossing a dirt 4x4 road, the trail ascends on a slight grade along a barbed wire fence and then increases in steepness. We started out on the north side of the fence, and at a break in the fence switched over to the south side as per the beaten path.

Skirting the hillside on a noticeable track heading east, we found a nice cluster of rocks that made for a great snack spot with wide open views to the south, east, and west.

Markings along the way were sporadic at best. Here, we encountered a very informational trail sign... the trail names and numbers were either never added or beaten off by the harsh weather of the Campo. In the distance are several stone enclosures used by shepherds to corral their flocks.

Our final destination for the day turned out to be the Madonna della Pieta Church seen here on the right. Most people come to the area to see the castle, Rocca Calascio, in the background. By the time that we arrived, however, several hiking parties were making their way up to the castle so we decided to leave it for another time and head back. The hike had already made enough of an impression that we knew that we would return.

In order to effect a loop hike, we followed a 4x4 track into the valley on the north side of the hills that we had crossed on the way to the church. The gentle grade and crushed stone made for easy walking.

Growing weary, we decided on a short cut back into town and took the auto road. Not recommended. Although traffic was light, any cars that passed did so a a breakneck speed and with little familiarity with hikers. We made it back to town just a half hour or so too late for lunch at the one restaurant in town. A shame... the town is known for its lentils! Gusto!

Fonte Pacile, September 28, 2012, Sulmona, Italy

Fonte Pacile, view to the west, with trail marker

Conveniently located just outside of Sulmona, the hike to Fonte Pacile turned out to be quite memorable. It's a fairly easy climb over moderate elevation gain that leads up to a fully functioning old spring, or fountain, nestled in the rolling hills east of the Sulmona cemetery. It's a truly pleasant spot, which we reached in time to have some snacks that we had brought along for a planned half-day of hiking. After the break, we decided to press on to try to complete a loop back to the cemetery parking area as indicated on our map of the Riserva Monte Genzana Alto Gizio, a protected regional natural area located close by that also showed our proposed route.

On the trail to Fonte Pacile, view to the east

Bad idea. Once we went up another 100 or so meters in elevation, the trail made a long descent back down into the valley. According to our map, the trail would then turn back to the west at a second fountain. We found the fountain (which was dead) but the land due west of it was now a recently plowed field. A little further ahead, we eventually found a trail heading in the direction that we needed to go, but it took us to a series of dead ends like fenced private properties, homes guarded by filthy ditch dogs, and natural barriers like bramble patches and steep slopes. We were clearly lost.

K scouting a trail

Having no other option, we retraced our steps back up to the hills. Out of water and nearly out of food, Fonte Pacile provided a much-needed (life-saving) respite once again. We took a long break to drink and fill our bottles and were rewarded with a view of a shepherd with his flock on the hill across from us. Well rested and rehydrated, we pushed back to the cemetery just as the last light of the afternoon was fading to dusk.

Tante Grazie, Fonte Pacile.

The start and end of the trail to Fonte Pacile, from the Sulmona Cimitero

Destination: Fonte Pacile
Distance: 16 km round trip (9.9 miles)
Elevation: 988 meters (3,241 feet)
Gain: 862 meters (2,828 feet)
Conditions: Party Cloudy, 75 degrees F

Sagittario Gorge, September 27, 2012, Riserva Naturale Regionale Monte Genzana Alto Gizio

Located just to the west of the Monte Genzana Alto Gizio Nature Reserve, this 6 km hike covering 370 meters (1,200 feet) of elevation gain connects two beautiful Italian hill towns (Anversi degli Abruzzi and Castrovalva) and returns via a spectacular gorge complete with towering walls, a river torrent, and plenty of flora and fauna. We can thank the book, Walking in Abruzzo, for pointing out this hike to us.

To start, a little advance research helped us to find a better place to park than the book recommends. Before getting to Anversa proper, a left hand turn past what looks like a large water treatment building takes you down to a car park next to the entrance of the botanical garden where the hike begins.

The first and only climb of the hike took us up to a point with great views looking back on Anversi degli Abruzzi. On the way, we received the good wishes of a gardener who left us with a friendly warning to be careful of cinghiali, wild boars that live in the area and are a delicacy on the dinner table here.

After the climb, the trail draws level in elevation with Castovalva. Here's our first glimpse of the picturesque town from across a steep ravine. M.C. Escher used as a model for one of his famous illustrations.

The route then heads into Castrovalva proper, which is perched high on a precipice overlooking the Sagittario River gorge and Anversi degli Abruzzi. A short detour takes you out to the Chiesa di San Michele, a church that sits on the furthest point outside of town and is surrounded by cliffs on three sides.

The descent route from Castrovalva into the gorge, or gole, of the River Sagittario, utilizes stone steps, dirt trails, and the auto road. The entrance to the gorge is marked at an intersection of the road with another main road to Scanno.

Leaving the auto road, the trail into the gorge offers a full canopy of tree cover. We encountered interpretive signage and warnings to heed the rock falls as well as numbered stations along a "geological trail." Basically, the trail that we were following back towards Anversa doubles as a geological route out of Anversa... a little confusing, but we figured it out.

The Sagittario River - really not much more than a stream - races through the gorge at a fast clip, but in parts it also forms slow moving pools with beautiful green mosses and other aquatic plant life. Nearing Anversa, it is diverted into a channel for the town's water supply.

The route through the gorge was extremely peaceful. We encountered not a single person and enjoyed the sounds of birds and rushing water. Numerous bridge crossings and glimpses through the canopy of the towering cliffs on both sides added to the experience of a really special place.

Monte Genzana, September 24, 2012, Riserva Naturale Regionale Monte Genzana Alto Gizio

Monte Genzana, from Piazza Garibaldi and Porchetta

Views of mountain peaks abound from Piazza Garibaldi, the main market square in the center of Sulmona. This photo, taken while we were devouring the local specialty of panini de porchetta, captures Monte Genzana - one of the big ones - nestled between the arches of a stunning, Medieval aqueduct that is one of the true landmarks of this picturesque Italian town.

I tackled Genzana, a monstrous 7,000 footer, as a solo up and back on a warm, sunny weekday. The trail head, located at the headwaters of the Gizio River where the town of Pettorano gets its water supply, is reachable through a pretty archaeological park and a meandering hardly-used auto road into the Gizio Valley.

Picturesque Pettorano Sul Gizio, View back into town from trail head access road

At the water works, the trail enters the woods, passes the Madonna della Valle church, and then gains elevation, steeply and consistently, covering 5,000 feet of elevation gain. It was clear that the trail was rarely used as the actual track soon disappeared, making it necessary to rely on sporadic blazes (and a map and compass) to find the way.

Summit, Monte Genzana, from Radio Tower

Once above tree line, an unsightly radio antenna provided the wayfinder past some stone sheep enclosures and up to the summit proper, which is marked, as is common in Catholic European nations, with a cross. Despite the proximity of this piece of modern technology, the peak still proved immensely peaceful. I lunched to the sound of the wind and the tranquility of a mountain top totally devoid of human beings. I met not a single hiker the entire day.

Monte Genzana, View of Summit above Treeline

Like the White Mountain 4000 footers and the Adirondack 46ers, the Italians have a club of their own. It's called Il Club 2000m - The 2000 meter club. To join, one must scale all 241 peaks in the Apennine mountains of central Italy that above 2000 meters in elevation. That's 6,500 feet.

1 down. 240 to go. Yea right.

Peak: Monte Genzana
Elevation: 2170 meters (7,119 feet)
Gain: 1600 meters (5,249 feet)
Route: Trail 5, up and back
Conditions: Sunny, 70 degrees F

Lago Barrea, September 23, 2012, Parco Nazionale d'Abruzzo, Lazio, e Molise

We used the guidebook, Walking in Abruzzo, as our guide for this hike. From the moment that we parked the car in Villetta Barea, however, we found ourselves baffled by the route descriptions that the text provides. The book says to take a "path immediately left of the car park." We did that, and it took us back into the irrigation channels of the Sangro River headwaters. You actually have to walk up the auto road first to find the correct path.

We managed a "frog march" bushwhack up a steep slope from the Sangro River to connect to the real trail without backtracking. Once on track, it proved pleasant walking up a gradual, forested slope.

After the forest walk, the path enters into open meadows with nice views of the surrounding mountains. The contrast of the verdant green with whitish-gray mountains and a cloudless, bright blue sky made for a spectacular visual experience. Since it was a weekend, we found a large number of people on the trails - including Equi-trekkers and birdwatchers.

The guidebook let us down again at mid-morning when we got off track and wound up having to retrace our steps - one hour later - after a failed uphill bushwhack. Fortunately, we had packed one of our favorite Italy trail lunches of tonno balsamico. The lunch respite in the warm sun gave us the energy to continue.

By early afternoon, the temperature had increased substantially and we had to cool off by dousing our heads and bandanas with water from this nice old fountain near Colle Jacollo, the high point of what was a fairly flat hike.

The "mascot" of the Parco Nazionale d'Abruzzo, Lazio, e Molise is an amiable, seated bear, which we found in various places along the route. Here, it is stenciled on one of the easy-to-miss route markers along our trail.

The loop hike connects Villetta Barrea, our starting point, with Civitella Alfendena, pictured here. From the colle, the trail descends downhill past an apiary and gradually through the town. It becomes quite hard to follow at the other end of Alfedena. We had to back track several times before finding the route leading down to the lake.

After descending from Alfedena, the trail ends at an auto road bridge crossing Lago Barrea, a man-made lake created by the damming the Sangro River. Once across the bridge, we headed west to loop back into Villetta Barea. The guidebook directed to look out for a large "equestrian center" that did not exist. We gathered that the center probably once stood on the site of what looked like a recently-erected playground and park.

My favorite part of the whole hike was the last stretch into Villetta Barrea, where the route became a paved river walk along the banks of the Sangro River. We stopped to enjoy the spot with the last of our day's snack foods.