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| View of Emmons (left) and Donaldson (center) from Shoulder Slabs of Mount Seward |
The only non-stormy day of the week that I had planned to hike the Seward Range turned out to be a sweltering day of high temperatures and high humidity. I probably got as wet from excessive perspiration as I would have just going out in the rain. But holding out for a day when the summits were out of the clouds was definitely worth it in the end. Although most of the Seward Range summits are tree-covered, there are enough open ledges to afford some really nice views of the Western High Peaks and canoe wilderness country.
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| The Infamous Can Cairn |
I opted against tackling all four peaks in the range in one day. Instead, I decided on doing Donaldson, Emmons and Seward together as a "T" shaped hike via the Calkins Brook Trail -- an unofficial "herd path" accessible via the trail to Duck Hole. I decided to stay in Saranac Lake as opposed to the usual home base of Jay since the Seward trailhead was only 30 minutes away.
I hit the trail at 6 a.m. and quickly reached the turn off to the south for the Calkins Brook Trail. There's a split before you get there - one trail for foot traffic and the other for horses - and I opted for the foot trail. I suspected that there would be way more mud on the horse trail on account of the recent rains. Once you get to the Calkins Brook turn off, the trail becomes quite wide with easy footing and follows a long descent to the famed "can cairn" Here, one turns off towards the east to start climbing the herd path up to the Seward Range ridgeline. It's a pleasant trail that follows the brook pretty much the whole way up, ensuing a water supply if needed.
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| View from Donaldson |
At the intersection with the summit ridge trail, I stowed my large pack and used a summit bag to do two out-and-backs to the peaks. I tacked Donaldson and Emmons first, then returned to my pack to take a short break before heading over to Seward. Of the two trips, I found the one to Seward to be a much more pleasant experience. The trail to Emmons had tons of mud holes, few views, and was otherwise totally unspectacular. On the contrary, the trail over to Seward follows some interesting contours and culminates in several hand-over-hand scrambles. It wasn't easy, as the trail requires you to go down steeply, then up and over a wooded knob before dropping down again and making the final climb to Seward. Although the summit itself is wooded, the slabs on its western face offer nice views back to Donaldson and Emmons.
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| Wooded Summit on Emmons |
After the two summit treks, I returned to get my pack from the juncture and headed down about .5 mile to the point where the trail first meets the brook. There, I took a long break to change socks (you always bring a change of socks in the High Peaks), refill my water bottles (the three liters I packed proved insufficient on such a scorcher of a day and I always bring my u/v filter) and rest up for the long descent. On the way down, I met another solo hiker going up to Donaldson and took a second break to chat with him. I needed the second break as the heat and humidity had really drained me and the final stretch from the can cairn to my car seemed to go on forever.
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| View of Seward from Donaldson Shoulder, Seymour Beyond |
I finally made it back to the parking lot at 3:45 p.m. for a total of 9 hours and 45 minutes of trail time. All in all, I liked being in a different -- and certainly quieter -- part of the High Peaks. I would surely go back to Seward, but I kind of doubt I will make the trip over to Emmons again.
Peaks: Donaldson, Emmons, and Seward
Elevation: 4.140 feet, 4,040 feet and 4.361 feet (Gain: 3,996 feet)
Distance: 15.5 miles
Route: "T" - Ward Brook Truck Trail to Calkins Brook Trail to Seward Range Ridge Trail, out-and-back to Donaldson and Emmons and out-and-back to Seward, return via Calkins Brook Trail and Ward Brook
Conditions: Partly Cloudy, 85 degrees F, high humidity
