Mount Tecumseh, October 13, 2014, Waterville Valley, White Mountain National Forest

Tecumseh Summit, with the the Osceolas in the Distance

Some hardcore NE hikers successfully complete the so-called "Winter 48," which means that they have gone up all of the 4,000 footers in the winter months. My guess is that you have to be local to undertake that kind of challenge. Winters in the Whites are so unpredictable and dangerous, that you really need to have nearby access in order to seize the nice days when you can and avoid the bad ones when they roll in on short notice. Further, many access roads to the popular peaks are closed in the winter months, meaning that your choice of trails is limited.

Gradual Grade on Mt. Tecumseh Trail

Such is the case with Mount Tecumseh, known for the diminutive distinction of being the shortest of the biggest mountains in the Whites. In the winter, Tripoli Road is closed, forcing hikers to use the crappy trail the runs right through the slopes of the Waterville Valley Ski Area. Still open on Columbus Day but soon to close, Tripoli Road served as our access point to what I think to be the much better trail to the summit - the Mount Tecumseh Trail.

Sun and Autumn Leaves on Mt. Tecumseh Trail

Arriving at first light, we found the parking lot completely empty and started out in head lamps. The trail makes a steady ascent, but is comparatively tame with no boulder scrambles and sure footing all the way. The only challenging portion is when one reaches the West Peak and then has to descend into a col and then steeply climb to Mt. Tecumseh proper. We made it to the top without a break and decided to spread out on the summit and take in the early morning sun of a definite blue bird day.

APC on Tecumseh Summit

We were pleasantly surprised to have awesome sit down views from the summit marker. Apparently, the Forest Service cut down trees since the publication of Steven Smith's guidebook - an absolute must-have for any White Mountain Mountaineer. After taking in the magnificent views of the Tripyramids and the Osceolas and talking with a few women wearing shirts from the Views From The Top hiking group who arrived while we were relaxing, we jetted back to the parking area inside four hours, having seen only four people throughout the entire morning.

With Tecumseh, we narrowed our 4,000 footer lists to 3 and 6 respectively.

Our conversation on the descent involved what lists we might tackle next.

Peak: Mount Tecumseh
Elevation: 4,003 feet (Gain: 2,600 feet)
Distance: 6.2 miles
Route: Up and back, Mt. Tecumseh Trail
Conditions: Sunny, 45 degrees F

Mount Garfield and Mount Galehead, October 12, 2014, Garfield Range, White Mountain National Forest

Early AM at the Garfield Summit

Having had a fairly easy time running the "Caps" up Mt. Jefferson on the day before, we decided that we were due for a big day. Mulling around various possibilities, we finally decided on a 15-mile loop along the spine of the rugged Garfield Range. For me, the trip would net a pair of 4,000 footers; For my bro, it would provide a chance to take in the splendid views from Garfield summit which had eluded him on his last visit to the peak.

Garfield Ridge Trail, with Galehead Hut in Distance

We hit the trail at 6:30, needing headlamps to negotiate the darkness along the lower reaches of the Garfield Trail. The early hour of departure kept us away from any hikers until we made elevation and reached the intersection of the Garfield Ridge Trail, where we encountered multiple parties leaving from the Garfield Tent site. Though perfect for providing some isolation in the woods, the early hour meant that we reached the summit before the cloud cover lifted. Summit Visibility? Zero.

Galehead Hut

Next stop. Galehead Hut for lunch. The place was absolutely hopping with people, but we still managed to snag a bench by the window just as the clouds lifted and views began to open onto the massive Twin Range nearby. Two bowls of soup and gingerbread  from the hut kroo augmented by our packed lunches provided the energy to make a quick run up Mt. Galehead. Having been up there before, APC decided to nap instead. I was up and back in 20.

Frost Trail near Galehead Sumit

Back at the hut, we took a longer than normal break enjoying the company of others and resting up for the long descent down the Gale River Trail. Steep at the start, it soon mellowed dramatically and the big day ended with an easy, but long, plod to the access road.

We finally reached the trail head and pressed on for the 1.6 mile road walk to complete the loop, which got us back to the car around 3:30... just in time to phone in a 4:30 waiting list request at the Common Man.

Gotta eat early on Columbus Day weekend in Lincoln.

Peaks: Mount Garfield and Mount Galehead
Elevation: 4,500 feet and 4,024 feet (Gain: 3,950 feet)
Distance: 15.3 miles
Route: Loop, Garfield Trail, Garfield Ridge Trail, Frost Trail, Gale River Trail
Conditions: Cloudy, becoming partly cloudy, 40 degrees F

Mt. Jefferson, October 11, 2014, Presidential Range, White Mountain National Forest

Mt. Jefferson Summit Cone, with Washington in Distance

Last September, our best laid plans for a hut-to-hut traverse of the Presidential Range summits were washed out by horrendous weather. One year later, my brother and I decided to take advantage of a super forecast for Columbus Day weekend and finally tackle Mount Jefferson. He'd tried unsuccessfully twice before; I'd tried it once. So we were both eager to make it happen once and for all.

Day Break on Caps Ridge Trail

We chose the Caps Ridge Trail, the shortest route to Mount Jefferson. Despite the minimal mileage, the age old adage of there being no "easy" 4,000 footers held true. Covering only five miles round trip, one still needs to negotiate the so-called "Caps," three lichen-encrusted rock outcroppings that require sure footing and hand-over-hand scrambling. Our hour of departure - daybreak - meant that we would also have to deal with slippery frost on the summit boulders.

The Caps and Jefferson Summit, from VCD Rock

We made quick work of the lower reaches of the trail, where it ambles through low pines and soon opens to a picturesque boulder overlook with vistas up to the summit. We named it "VCD rock," as we had picked up sandwiches from Vermont Country Deli the day before and the boulder would  serve as our lunch spot on the descent. Next up, clambering over the caps.

APC Ascending the Caps

Once above treeline, the decent weather afforded splendid views of the just-past-peak foliage and the higher summits of the Presidential Range and beyond. The cog railway and garish, red-and-white-painted Omni Hotel at Bretton Woods also feature prominently on the landscape.

Too bad for that.

The wind had picked up by the time we reached the frost-encrusted summit boulders, so we only stayed for a few minutes. While enjoying our thermos-full-of-coffee break, two hikers with three dogs arrived at the summit. One of the dogs, a feeble greyhound, followed its master up to the true summit and found himself stuck and unable to turn around. Shivering from the cold and whimpering from its precarious position, the poor animal's fear and awkwardness will forever be burned into my mind when I think of Mt. Jefferson.

Does the ASPCA have a North Country mountain chapter?
 
Peak: Mount Jefferson
Elevation: 5,716 feet (Gain: 2,700 feet)
Distance: 5 miles
Route: Up and back, Caps Ridge Trail
Conditions: Partly Sunny, 35 degrees F

Mount Lincoln and Mount Lafayette, August 21, 2014, Franconia Range, White Mountain National Forest

Waterfall on the Falling Waters Trail, thus the name

In all these years of traveling to the Whites, I have always been awed (like thousands of others) with the Franconia Range. Lafayette is the biggest, most prominent peak in the range, and I was looking forward to getting to the top after long admiring it from afar. K and I had plans the previous year for an overnight stay at Greenleaf Hut, just below the summit, which would then serve as the base for the short climb to the summit. However, the unpredictable early Spring weather (snow on Memorial Day) bagged that idea. A year later, with a good weather forecast and potential for t-storms the following day, I decided that the time was finally right.

View to Mount Lafayette from Mt. Lincoln Summit

Starting out at 6:45 AM, I opted for a long loop hike up the Falling Waters Trail, which proved an excellent choice as the trail travels alongside and underneath a series of picturesque cascades. Though not nearly as steep as some other trails, Falling Waters is a steady, rocky climb as it gains elevation via a series of switchbacks. Despite the comparative ease, I took more than my usual number of breaks. My brother had recently lost his trusty Brittany, Dilsey, a great little dog who tackled a number of 4,000 footers herself. A little trailside memorial shrine on the shoulder of Mt. Lincoln seemed appropriate.

Trail Shrine to Dilsey

After a brief rest at the Mt. Lincoln summit, which of course commands excellent views in all directions, I pressed on along the rocky Franconia Ridge trail to Mount Lafayette. The day was so perfect - cool, little wind, and long views -- that I opted for a longer stay at the top of Lafayette. There, I encountered three Appalachian Trail thru hikers who arrived one after another at the summit and threw off their loaded packs to rest and catch up with one another. I talked to them for a bit about their forthcoming route through the Whites, having been on much of this section of the AT myself. Before parting, I offered up some of my remaining foodstuffs -- clif shots, power bars, and even a left-over protein shake. They graciously accepted.

Descending from Lafayette Summit, Greenleaf Hut in Distance

Gotta spread the Trail Magic.

After bidding farewell, I started my descent and finally had a chance to visit Greenleaf Hut, one of the most exposed of the high huts. I could see how the ridge would be no place to travel in poor weather. I stopped in to refill my water bottles and then hopped down the Old Bridle Path, passing a number of people sweating over "Agony Ridge" on their way up.

Back at the parking area, I realized that Lafayette marked my 37th 4,000 footer.

Hard to believe that there are only 10 to go.

Peaks: Mount Lincoln and Mount Lafayette
Elevation: 5,089 and 5,260 feet  (Gain: 3,900 feet)
Distance: 8.9 miles
Route: Loop, Falling Waters Trail to Franconia Ridge Trail to Greenleaf Trail to Old Bridle Path
Conditions: Pleasant and clear

Mount Flume and Mount Liberty, August 19, 2014, Franconia Range, White Mountain National Forest

Mount Flume (and the famous slide) from Mount Liberty Summit

Last year, I made the rough climb from Greeley Ponds to the Osceolas, which one writer calls one of the toughest trails in the Whites. Scratch that. Flume Slide Trail in the Franconia Range is equally hard. After a pleasant, gradual ascent that skirted the lower face of Mt. Liberty from the hiker parking area just north of the Flume Visitor Center, I finally reached the notorious "slide." From there, one faces a 1/2 mile of unrelenting, hand-over-hand climbing up a steeply-pitched rock face - the remnants of an age-old mountain slide. Since the slide occurred many years back, the area around it has long since been overtaken by forest. This proved a godsend, as the trees provided much-needed hand holds on the dicey climb. 

Looking down on a section of the slide

At one scramble point, my Nalgene bottle got knocked from my pack and bounded down the slide. It traveled so far, in fact, that as it disappeared from view I could still hear hear the sound of it clattering off the rock face far below. I seriously considered leaving it... I had another full bottle... but decided to stow my pack and go find the damned thing. As it turned out, it came to rest all the way at the bottom. After re-climbing the slide, I enjoyed pleasant summit views from both peaks and descended just in time to meet the hoards coming up the significantly-easier Liberty Spring Trail. 

Fortunately, I had left early enough (6:30 AM) to have the summits to myself. Plus, a 12:45 PM exit time meant that there was still a chance to hit Polly's.

Mount Liberty, View from Summit of Mount Flume

Peak: Mount Flume and Mount Liberty

Elevation: 4,328 and 4,459 feet (Gain: 3,750 feet)
Distance: 9.9 miles
Route: Loop, via Whitehouse Trail to Liberty Spring Trail to Flume Slide Trail to Franconia Ridge Trail to Liberty Spring Trail to Whitehouse Trail
Conditions: Pleasant, Sunny, Clear

North and South Twin Mountain, August 18, 2014, Twin Range, White Mountain National Forest

Summit Push, South Twin Mountain

Bogged down on our latest home rehabilitation adventure, K and I recently realized that we had not gotten away to the mountains together since last autumn's excursion to the Abruzzo. Clearly, the house work had put our priorities elsewhere. Understandable? Certainly. But we REALLY needed to get out of dodge.

The Beater on The Streeter

A little cabin on the northwest shore of Streeter Pond in Sugar Hill proved the perfect getaway. A little old, a little smelly, a little lopsided (it's slowly being reclaimed by the pond), the so-called "Beater on the Streeter" offered great opportunities for wildlife observation. Otters liked to hunt crayfish right off our cabin dock; osprey and blue heron swooped upon and stalked fish; and a bald eagle terrorized pretty much everything.The only non-carnivorous action, come to think of it, involved a big old moose. We watched him peacefully eating plants along the opposite shore for a good 1/2 hour. A great sighting on a great trip.

Log Crossing, Little River, North Twin Trail

Needless to say, it also involved some ascendant outings. I choose the hulking Twins for my first solo trip of the week. Awakening at 5:00 AM to the sound of rain on the cabin roof, I decided to change my plan from a hike in the Franconia Range to a run up the Twins. I hit the North Twin Trail really early - 6 AM - and immediately met the light, soaking rain that turned the trails into slop. The crossing of the Little River proved more difficult that I expected for August -- a balancing act on a pair of slippery logs wedged across a raging channel. After that, it was a long, gradual climb up rocky trails that had been turned into cascading streams from the steady rain. The rain subsided by the time I reached the summit of North Twin, but the high elevation spur trail to South Twin proved to be a veritable mud fest. I slogged on, rewarded by a socked in summit and not a single view on the day.

Slop on the Spur

Meeting not a single soul on the ascent, I encountered only three upward-bound hikers on my way down. I guess that a total wash out is one way to avoid the August hoards in the Whites.

North Twin Ledge, Just Below Summit Cairn

Peak: North and South Twin Mountain
Elevation: 4,761 feet and 4,902 feet (Gain: 3,700 feet)
Distance: 11.2 miles
Route: Up and Back, via North Twin Trail and North Twin Spur
Conditions: Fog and steady rain, 50 degrees F, zero visibility at the summits

Mount Moosilauke, Tuesday, May 19, 2014, Moosilauke Region, White Mountain National Forest

High Winds and Zero Visibility on Moosilauke Summit

We had a tough time finding a route up Mount Moosilauke, our final hike of the trip. As it turned out, we made it up to the summit and back by 10 AM, leaving the rest of the day for the long drive back to the Mid Atlantic. The only downside, it turned out, was the high elevation weather. As opposed to the warm, pleasant temps at the trailhead, the conditions at the summit were downright nasty. Thankfully, we encountered no precipitation, but the high winds, cold temps, and total cloud cover made it a much more unpleasant summit bid than that of our earlier hikes. But that's what you get above treeline in the Whites.

Last Sure Water, Gorge Brook Trail

There are many routes up Moosilauke. We had hoped to take the Benton Trail in from the northwest, but our research revealed that the access road was pretty much destroyed in a recent hurricane making the trailhead accessible only by a three mile road walk. We passed on the Beaver Brook Trail as well, learning that it had some seriously steep sections. We had enough of that already. In the end, we opted for what turned out to be a total cake walk... The Gorge Brook Trail.

Only views of the day, Gorge Brook Trail

The trail meanders at a gentle grade through Dartmouth-owned lands south of the summit. The signage, which starts at the parking area of the Ravine Lodge, is a little confusing, so it took a few minutes to get oriented to the correct trail. As it turned out, the lower reaches of our trail suffered hurricane damage as well and was cordoned off with a "trail closed" sign. Fortunately, the Dartmouth Outdoor Club has built a new connector trail around the wash outs. We made quick work of the ascent and spent no more than a few minutes in the veritable wind tunnel that greeted us at the summit. The amazing views from this monster 4,000 footer will have to wait until next time.

Peak: Mount Moosilauke
Elevation: 4,802 feet (Gain: 2,871 feet)
Distance: 8.2 miles
Route: Up and Back, via Gorge Brook Trail
Conditions: Pleasant at the trailhead; wind, cold, and zero visibility at the summit

Cannon Mountain, Monday, May 18, 2014, Franconia Notch, White Mountain National Forest

Cannon Mountain, View From Hi-Cannon Trail

The trailhead for the Hi-Cannon Trail, our route of choice to the top of the mountain that once housed the famous profile face of New Hampshire lore, is located just fifteen minutes from the Kancamagus Lodge. Thus, our second 4 AM awakening got us to the start point a few minutes before 5 AM. Our plan called for a quick up-and-back to be completed by the late morning, in time for a much-needed visit to Polly's Pancake Parlor in nearby Sugar Hill. Mmmmmmm... Blueberry Corn.

The Ladder, Hi-Cannon Trail

We parked at the Lafayette Campground just off the interstate and zipped quietly through the occupied campsites. As expected, everyone was still fast asleep. Most routes up to Cannon -- save the tramway -- are pretty darn steep. Hi-Cannon proved to be no exception, with a number of vertical, vertigo-inducing sections including a ladder bolted into a section of rock.

View to the West From Hi-Cannon Trail, Lonesome Lake and Hut

After gaining elevation, we stopped at one of the first overlooks on the trail and were fortunate to glass a moose mulling about on the edge of Lonesome Lake. A great sighting, and one that reinforces the fact that you have to get out really early if you want to see these reclusive, majestic animals in the flesh. We wondered if the hut visitors were also observing the moose from the other side of the lake. Nah... Probably still sleeping.

Weathered Sign, Hi-Cannon Trail

After a two hour climb, we took a short break under the observation deck eyesore at the summit. The wind had picked up -- a big change from the day before -- so we found a sheltered place below a retaining wall where we consumed a few clif bars and some dried fruit. For the descent, we chose to head southwest along the Kinsman Ridge Trail and down to Lonesome Lake, then back to the car via the long, easy switchback that connects Lafayette Camp to the hut. The plan had merit... until we realized that the section of Kinsman Ridge leading from Cannon Mountain is super steep. We toughed it out and were back down by 10 AM. Just in time for Polly's.

Peak: Cannon Mountain
Elevation: 4,100 feet (Gain: 2,500 feet)
Distance: 5.5 miles
Route: Up and back, via Lonesome Lake Trail, Hi-Cannon Trail, Kinsman Ridge Trail
Conditions: Mostly Sunny, 70 degrees F
Notable Fauna: Moose sighting

Mount Whiteface and Mount Passaconaway, Sunday, May 17, 2014, Sandwich Range, White Mountain National Forest

APC on Blueberry Ledge Trail

In mid-May, day break in the White Mountains comes early... REALLY early. So for this year's trip to the North Country, we made a habit of setting our internal alarms for a 4 AM rise. For our first hike of this trip, we needed the extra time. The drive to Ferncroft from our usual base of operations -- the Kancamagus Lodge in Lincoln -- was quite a long one. After encountering a closed Dunkin Donuts in Lincoln (they open at 5 AM) and negotiating a few wrong turns trying to find route 113 (the exits on 93 have been changed since the Steven Smith's book was published), we finally made it to the Ferncroft parking area at 6:15 AM. One car in the lot already. Failure. We always want to be the first ones out.

Rock Hopping... Before Gaiter Fail

Whiteface and Passaconaway are among the smallest of the 4,000 footers, but by no means are they the easiest... especially if you approach by way of the Blueberry Ledge Trail. It's a real monster, with lots of rock scrambles and hand-over-hand climbing along the way. The WM Guide even calls it one of the toughest trails in the whites. Although it was our first 4,000 footer climb of the year, we took advantage of the (relatively) early start and beautiful weather to make quick work of peak number one -- Mount Whiteface.

Scaling the Blueberry Ledge Trail

My second pair of OR gaiters -- the ones that I had been given by the company after a first pair blew out -- got shredded on the rock scrambling parts of the trail, which require one to stow trekking poles and have both hands free. We'll see if they come through with a second replacement.

Open rocks, Below Whiteface Summit

We lunched near the Whiteface summit and then pressed on to the less-than-impressive Passaconaway summit, which is little more than a small cairn just off the trail. Despite the absence of a summit view, it was cool to look down on Mount Hedgehog from a nearby viewpoint. Not wanting to descend down the harrowing ledges, we chose Dicey's Mill Trail for the return -- effectively making a 10-mile loop hike back back to the car at Ferncroft. A fairly straightforward descent brought us back to a full lot of cars and a prompt return to Lincoln for some pool and ping pong at the Kanc.

Peaks: Mount Whiteface and Mount Passaconaway
Elevation: 4,020 and 4,043 feet (Gain: 3,850 feet)
Distance: 10.8 miles
Route: Loop, via Blueberry Ledge Trail, Rollins Trail, Dicey's Mill Trail
Conditions: Sunny, 65 degrees F