Hemlock Mountain via Naval Run and Black Forest Trails, June 20, 2026, Tiadaghton State Forest

View to Pine Creek Gorge from Hemlock Mountain

My brother and I don't do a lot of summer hiking in Pennsylvania. We prefer the late fall, early spring and winter months for meeting up in his neck of the woods for big day outings in the commonwealth. This year, however, we wanted to take advantage of a rare, cool and breezy mid-June day with low humidity to do a hike in the mountains around Pine Creek Gorge and enjoy the seasonal blooming of the mountain laurel. The one downside to not hiking in early summer is that you miss out on the optimal time to see the official state flower of Pennsylvania. But, as we soon found out, peak season for mountain laurel is also peak season for timber rattlers.

Mountain Laurel on Naval Run Trail

It took an hour and a half to drive to the trail, which is the absolute max amount of one-way car time for a day hike that either of us can handle. Fortunately, we still managed to be geared up and on the trail by 7:30 a.m. sharp. Unlike most of our hikes, which begin by ascending, this one starts with a long, gradual descent via switchbacks. The Naval Run Trail is a grassy trail with easy footing leading down into a pleasant wooded canyon. The blooming mountain laurel was aplenty on the higher elevation ridge top, then gradually disappeared as we lost elevation, replaced by large swaths of stinging nettles. However, this loop hike contains multiple ups and downs, so the mountain laurel would appear again each time that we climbed back up to the higher elevations. It's been a long time since I hiked Pennsylvania in mid-June. Keystone State forests are diverse and beautiful at this time of year.

Waterfall on Callahan Run Tributary

At the bottom of the ravine, we connected with the Black Forest Trail which makes a long ascent to the top of Hemlock Mountain. On the sunny rocks near the summit, a timber rattlesnake warned us of its presence so we gave it a wide berth, admired it from afar and made note to keep an eye out for others. I was in the lead and thought that I was being extra careful to scan the rocky trail ahead. However, I must have gotten lost in conversation at one point and suddenly heard my brother exclaim "snake!" I whipped around to see another rattler directly on the trail behind me. I had walked right over him. I don't have a fear of snakes, but coming that close to stepping on a venomous creature six miles deep into the forest had me, well, rattled. Lesson 1 of the day. Pay close attention in snake season. Lesson 2. Rattlers don't always rattle. 

Big Sky on Big Trail Scenic Road

After Hemlock Mountain, we traveled along the ridge to a campsite, stopped for lunch, and then descended again along Callahan Run. At the bottom of the valley, three trails and several streams come together at a very nice campsite within earshot of a small, picturesque waterfall. We made note of the spot for future hiking trips and then started the second of the two long, unrelenting ascents of the day back up to the higher elevation lands of the blooming mountain laurel. At the top, we ran into two hikers traveling in the opposite direction and chatted with them for a few minutes about the weather, their route and other favorite hiking spots in Pennsylvania. After bidding farewell, we set off on the Big Trail Scenic Road back to the car and quickly lamented our one mistake. 

Should have warned them about the rattlers.

Destination: Hemlock Mountain
Distance: 11.4 miles
Elevation: 2,080 feet (2,533 feet gain)
Route: Clockwise loop, Naval Run Trail to Black Forest Trail to Big Trail Scenic Road
Conditions: Sunny, 60 - 80 degrees F
Notable Flora/Fauna: Timber Rattlesnake x2

Rattlesnake, Bird and Blue Mountains, Tillman Ravine and Silver Spray Waterfall, April 27, 2026, Stokes State Forest

Blue Mountain Summit, View to the Northwest and Fog Trails on the Delaware River

With May quickly approaching, I resolved to hurry up and do at least one more big hike in the Delaware Water Gap before the season's end. My season for the Gap is November-April. Outside of those six months, there are just too many people for my liking. I'd also been cooped up in a car on several recent road trips and needed some locomotion big time. I ultimately decided on a 12.5-mile loop that covers 2,500 feet of gain starting along the Appalachian Trail ridge, descending into Tillman Ravine, climbing back up the ridge, descending again past the Silver Spray waterfalls, and then concluding with a final climb back up to the top. My new favorite hiking GPS app, CalTopo, is a great tool for putting together hikes at the Delaware Water Gap. Unlike the Adirondacks, there are not many long distance trails other than the AT, so a good app helps plan out the higher-mileage, higher-elevation gain hikes that I am looking for. I've been using CalTopo in conjunction with my NY-NJ Trail Conference paper maps and it has tons of neat features for the serious hiker. It's so much better than AllTrails, aka Facebook for hikers.

Spring Fiddlehead Ferns on the AT

I started out at 7 a.m. from the small parking lot off Owassa Road and made quick work of the switchback climb up to the AT. The warblers were out early and I got the sounds and sightings of plenty of Black and White Warblers almost immediately. I followed the rocky ridge up and over Rattlesnake, Bird and Blue Mountains and then descended past the Brink Road shelter to the highlight of the day -- The Tillman Bog. Iridescently-beautiful tree swallows were flitting about the dead trees and beaver lodges and in the background rose the distinct call of a Barred Owl doing his usually-nocturnal thing in the early a.m. I thought about finding a spot to camp out for an hour to listen and watch, but in the end I only spent about 15 minutes there before hitting the trail again. I'll be back.

Tillman Bog

After the bog, I followed a combination of hiking trails and the auto road down to the bottom of Tillman Ravine, then climbed back up past its rocky chutes and cascades. We had a substantial rain the day before and that was one of my reasons for choosing this hike. As I expected, the water was flowing nicely through this picturesque spot and it reminded me a little of the Flume and Basin in the White Mountains, though on a much smaller scale. More importantly, there were no cars in the two parking areas that give access to the ravine and I fortunately had it all to myself. 

Tillman Ravine

I took a relatively-newer trail called the Maple Leaf Trail back up towards Bird Mountain and then descended again along the trail that passes the Silver Spray waterfalls. You actually have to leave the trail to get to my favorite viewing spot, but it is less than a 1/4 mile detour and well worth it. After another break next to the cascades, I followed the long, straight woods road to the connector trail that leads back up to the AT. This is a rocky, steep trail reminiscent of something you'd find in the Adirondacks. It felt a little strange doing a steep climb so late in the day since my usual peak bagging always means climbing early and descending late. But it was fine. Once back on the ridge, I followed the AT back to the switchback and headed down to my car. 

On the day, I only encountered two other hikers. That won't be the case come May.

Destination: Rattlesnake, Bird and Blue Mountains, Tillman Ravine and Silver Spray Waterfall 
Distance: 12.5 miles
Elevation: 2,569 feet gain
Route: Clockwise hour glass loop: Mullins Road Trail to Appalachian Trail to Brink Road to Tilman Road to Tillman Trails to Red Maple Trail to Woods Road to Appalachian Trail to Woods Road to AT Connector to Appalachian Trail to Mullins Road
Conditions: Sunny, 34-64 degrees F
Notable Flora/Fauna: Black and White Warbler, Prairie Warbler, Black-Throated Green Warbler, Louisiana Water Thrush, Barred Owl, Tree Sparrow, Oven Bird

Six Ponds and Bird Mountain Loop, Sunday March 29, 2026, Delaware Water Gap

Crater Lake, view from the southeast Rocks

I really enjoy hiking in the Delaware Water Gap in the cold weather months. At this time of year, certain roads get shut down, limiting access to the interior. Also, people in the Mid-Atlantic don't like the cold. With the warm weather hikers staying home, the trails become pleasantly quiet and lonely. So the winter and early spring, for me, is the absolute best time to hike the Gap. On a chilly late-March day, I decided to try a new variant on an old favorite - the Six Ponds Loop. Accessing the ridge from a lesser used dead end parking area near Fairview Lake, the hike takes you to six picturesque mountain ponds. Some they call ponds; some they call lakes. I never get the difference. This time, I added an out and back to Bird Mountain summit and Silver Spray Waterfall, which extended the hike to a respectable 15 miles over 2,000 feet of elevation gain. 

Rhododendron Tunnels near Long Pine Pond

Starting out at 7 a.m. sharp, I found the forest eerily quiet. In the lower elevations where I live, the early morning woods were already filled with the sounds of the many birds that you start to hear at this time of year -- Robins, Red-Winged Blackbirds, even Eastern Towhees. But apparently they had not yet decided to venture into the higher elevations and all was quiet as I climbed up the ridge and descended down to Long Pine Pond. As the day progressed, I did have some good sightings -- Common Mergansers on many of the ponds and plenty of Pileated and Red-Bellied Woodpeckers. I also came across a cacophony of American Goldfinches, the New Jersey State Bird. Later in the day, I had a great view of a Red-Tailed Hawk soaring low over Mountain Ridge Pond and another of a Red-Tailed Hawk and Common Raven casually hanging out together on a tree along the AT. It was neat.

Wetlands Viewing Rock East of Hemlock Pond

I had the whole hike to myself and took nice breaks on the shores of most of the water bodies. The only hiker who I encountered was on the trail after Blue Mountain Lake. She had an old Brittany Spaniel with her, which reminded me of my brother's long-time hiking companion, Dilsey, so I stopped to pet the pooch. She was a regular on the trails and expressed surprise at seeing another car at her "secret" parking area where we both had started our hikes.

I'm glad that it's still a secret.

Destination: Six ponds and Bird Mountain
Distance: 15 miles
Elevation: 2,067 feet (gain)
Route: Counterclockwise loop 
Conditions: Partly sunny, 30-40 degrees F
Notable Flora/Fauna: Common Mergansers, Red-Tailed Hawks, Common Ravens, Pileated Woodpeckers, American Goldfinches

 

Whiteface Mountain, October 17, 2025, McKenzie Mountain Wilderness, Adirondack Park

First light and waning crescent moon from Marble Mountain overlook

Everyone knows the rules for High Peaks hiking. Make sure to pack your "Essential Ten." Leave your planned route and ETA with someone back home. Always maintain three points of contact on ladders. Bury human waste in a hole six to eight inches deep, off the trail, and away from water sources. Today, I came up with a new one. Never watch a musical-turned-motion picture the night before a solo 46er hike. I did just that before a recent hike up Whiteface Mountain and couldn't shake Gee Officer Krupke, America, and other catchy tunes from West Side Story the entire six-hour-long morning on the trail. Particularly embarrassing, on the descent, was when a hiking party rounded a bend to catch my vocalization of the most earworm West Side Story song of all -- I Feel Pretty. Oh well, Muhammad Ali wasn't afraid to say it.

Approach to Whiteface summit buildings

Mount Whiteface looms large over the towns of Wilmington and Jay, our go-to base of operations whenever we visit the Adirondacks. You can see Whiteface from the pond loop hike in the cabin subdivision where we often stay. You can see it from two of our favorite hikes in the area, the Bluffs at Silver Lake and Cobble Lookout. And it is the prominent landmark in views from Catamount, Clark Mountain, Silver Lake Mountain Jay Mountain and other lower elevation peak hikes in the Wilmington/Jay region. Yet in all these years of hiking in this part of the Adirondacks, I still had never visited its summit... despite having already hiked up to its nearby sister peak, Mount Esther.

View to the Northeast from Whiteface 

So, on the last day of a recent weeklong stay in Jay, I decided to use the blue bird weather forecast of sunny skies, light wind, and cold, yet still comfortable, autumn temps to finally visit Whiteface. I set off on the Marble Mountain Trail from the ASRC at 6 a.m. sharp, choosing this route because I wanted to get to the mountain's overlook point with plenty of time to watch the sun come up. It only took about 30 minutes to navigate the straight but steep scree-covered route up to the overlook with a headlamp. I then camped out for 45 minutes or so to watch the pitch black of night turn to first light and, eventually, a beautiful sunrise. It was neat.

Rockwell Kent-ing it on Whiteface pinnacle

Once on the Wilmington Trail, it is a fairly straightforward climb covering a lot of elevation over a short distance, kind of like Giant Mountain in the ADK and many of the 4,000 footers of the White Mountains. I was glad to do this hike a few days after the memorial highway had closed for the season since I was the first hiker to the top and had the entire summit all to myself to admire the 360 degree panorama and explore the eerily quiet buildings. A week earlier and I am sure that the place would have been mobbed. I didn't start encountering other hikers until I was about 1/3 of the way back down the mountain, but all of them were amiable, chatty folks clearly enjoying a beautiful day out so I didn't much mind. I was quite content that I had plenty of alone time on an otherwise ever-busy peak.

Oh, I almost forgot. Mount Whiteface makes it 46/46 ADK High Peaks hiked.

And there was much rejoicing. Yaaaay.

Peak: Whiteface Mountain
Elevation: 4,867 feet (Gain: 3,254 feet)
Distance: 7.55 miles
Route: Out and back, Marble Mountain Trail to Wilmington Trail 
Conditions: Sunny, 30 degrees F

Couchsachraga, Panther, and Santanoni Peaks, October 12, 2025, Western High Peaks, Adirondack Park

Amazing High Peaks panorama from Santanoni... view to the east of Algonquin, Iroquois, Colden and its slides, Marcy, Skylight, Haystack, Allen, Nippletop, etc., Henderson Mountain in foreground and Mt. Adams mid-distance on right

For a couple of reasons, I'd always planned to do the three 46ers in the Santanoni Range as multiple trips. For one, I knew that the trifecta was going to be a really tough hike with long mileage, high elevation gain, numerous ups and downs, difficult terrain, and a lenghy out and back to an extremely remote peak on the other side of a false summit and notoriously difficult-to-cross boggy area. Breaking it up into several comparatively-easier hikes seemed to make more sense. Another reason was more philosophical than physical. Seemingly out of nowhere, I found myself at a point only 4 peaks away from having hiked all 46 High Peaks of the ADK. Some people rush to finish the list. I didn't want it to end. Turning the Santanonis into several hikes would allow the fun to live on. 

First views of the day at the precipice above Bradley Pond

When the day that I set aside to explore the range finally came, however, the conditions were so perfect that I decided I was ready for a big day and set out to visit all three as a single hike. Since the trail head in Tahawus was 1 1/2 hours away, one way, I got up at 4 a.m. in order to make it there by 6:30 and was geared up and on the trail to Bradley Pond at 6:45 sharp. I only needed headlamp and bear bell for about 15 minutes until sunrise. It was great to have the early morning trail to myself all the way to the pond.

"Times Square" base camp for the day

On the other side of Bradley Pond, the herd path along Panther Brook rises steeply to a first view of the day overlooking the valley and the pond down below. Here, I overtook a pair of friendly hikers who had started at 6 a.m. and were doing all three peaks as well. I was surprised to see them at this location as most hikers tend to do Santanoni first via the Express. Instead, my plan called for a counter clockwise route. I wanted to get the long slog of Couchsachraga out of the way first. The psychological boost of still having a couple of peaks with nice views as motivation, I reasoned, would help me on the long, two-hour out-and-back to a lower, wooded, and less interesting peak. 

Yes, there is a view from Couchie!

So that's what I did. Once at the height of land at the top of the Panther Brook herd path, I stowed my heavy pack at Times Square - the unofficial name of the trail nexus - and began the trek to Couchsachraga with just a  summit bag. I knew that it would be long, but this descent goes on and on and on and on. Then it goes up, then down over a false summit before finally dropping steeply to the infamous bog. At this point, I encountered a pair of hikers pushing out of the woods to the right (north) of the bog and they informed me that this was the best way to go. Indeed, following a faint bushwhack through the saplings here allows for the complete circumnavigation of the dreaded bog. Glad to have avoided the wet work, I started climbing again and finally made it up to Couchsachraga. People always complain that it is a waste of a hike because the peak offers no views. That's true, to a point. The summit proper is just a small wooded clearing. But there is actually a very nice overlook with a wide view back to Santanoni just to the east of the summit. After tagging the sign, I backtracked to this point and stopped here to admire those very views. 

Views from Panther Peak to Santanoni (left) and to Couchsachraga and its false summit (right)

It was on the long return from Couchsachraga to Times Square that I encountered the bulk of the hikers who I would see that day, about ten or so, who had all started after me and done Santanoni first. This was promising, I thought, because it would mean that I would probably have Santa all to myself later in the day. I hit Panther next, which involved backtracking the way I had come in, but I stuck with the summit bag and that made for a quick and easy up and back. The views on Panther are great. It was neat to look down on Couchsachraga and its false summit knowing that I had already done them. Phew! The view to Santanoni, the biggest of these three peaks, is spectacular as well, and for me was also a little daunting knowing that I was heading there next. I chatted with two solo hikers hanging out on the summit and then moved out for the last climb of the day.

Fresh socks as a reward for the climb to Santanoni, view to Panther Peak

As I had hoped, I did get to have Santanoni Peak all to myself. After visiting the summit proper, I returned to a small clearing with a vantage point back to Panther and took a long break to rest, eat, drink and change socks - my go-to late-day psychological boost to close out the last miles of a long hike in the ADK. Everybody raves about the view from the open slabs on Panther, but the best views are to be had on Santanoni. Looking east from one of the overlooks, a full High Peaks panorama unfolds before you... easily one of the very best vista points of all the 46ers. It took a while but eventually I got around to starting my descent on the Santa Express. It was rough, but pretty straightforward technically until I got to the top of the so-called "Hillary Step," a super steep, forty-foot-tall open rock slab. When ascending this trail, I found out later, there is a clearly discernable reroute which bypasses the slab itself. But I entirely missed this option on the descent and had to take a few minutes to contemplate the safest route down. I ended up just tossing my poles and pack off the ledge and climbing down the center of the slab using the cracks and fissures as hand holds. Channeling the inner Alex Honnold? Not.

Looking back up the Hillary Step on the Santa Express

Once off the Express, the Bradley Pond Trail seemed to go on forever but I finally made it back to the parking area around 4 p.m. for a total trail time of about 9 1/2 hours. I had scraped shins, cut hands, bruised shoulder, ripped pants, saturated boots, and aching legs. All in all, doing all three peaks in the Santanoni Range as a day hike lived up to my expectations as a real beast.

Should have split 'em up.

Peaks: Couchsachraga Peak, Panther Peak, and Santanoni Peak
Elevation: 3,820 feet, 4,442 feet, 4,026 feet, 4,607 feet (Gain: 4,707 feet)
Distance: 15.1 miles roundtrip
Route: Loop, Bradley Pond Trail to Panther Brook herd path, to Times Square, to Couchsachraga herd path, back to Times Square, to Panther Peak herd path, back to Times Square, to Santanoni herd path to Santanoni Express, to Bradley Pond Trail
Conditions: Mostly sunny, 35 degrees F
Notable Flora/Fauna: Nothing of note in the so-called "dismal wilderness"

Allen Mountain, September 20, 2025, High Peaks Wilderness, Adirondack Park

Misty dawn on Lake Sally

Although I didn't plan on it until the last minute, I decided to do the super long hike to Allen Mountain based on the fact that the region had not seen much rain in the past few months and the forecast called for perfect autumn hiking conditions. I anticipated that the Opalescent River would be low enough to rock hop when it often runs so high that hikers need to lug Tevas or other water shoes and actually wade across. The trail to Allen Mountain is muddy, like all ADK High Peaks, so I figured on less mud due to the lack or rain. More importantly, I expected that the dreaded "red slime" on the rocky slabs up Allen migbt be slightly dried up, making that notoriously tough ascent a little bit easier. All of these elements of the hike that I had anticpated turned out to be true. The one thing that I didn't anticipate was having a hiking partner for almost all of the long, 11-hour, 18-mile day.

Frosty morning and autumn colors on East River Trail

I never hike the High Peaks on Saturdays due to the trail traffic, but figured that I could make an exception on a challenging and remote peak like Allen since it is much less popular than almost any other High Peak. I still made sure to head out early and got one of the last spots in the East River Trail parking lot at around 5:45 a.m., well before sunrise. Several hiking parties looked to be waiting for first light to start out, but I put on my headlamp and hit the trail in the pitch black of pre-dawn at 6 a.m. sharp. The first part of the trail is flat and easy but you still need to watch carefully for rocks and roots. Head down with the light on the trail, I didn't see much of anything until reaching the shore of Lake Sally and took a few minutes to watch the mist rising above it by the dawn's early light. It was a peaceful, pleasant site.

In the middle of the low flow Opalescent River

About 2 hours in, after the expected super-easy crossing of the dried up Opalescent River, I caught up to a hiker and greeted him with a comment of starting out in a headlamp. John was a friendly, gregarious fellow and we chatted for a few minutes before he hit the trail again. I needed to fix my boots and take a water break, but sure enough I caught up with him again about 20 minutes later. This time, he invited me to hike with him. What the hell, I thought. Allen is a long, grueling slog of a hike and it might be a nice change of pace to join a fellow hiker for a while. I figured that maybe we'd hike together for a few hours and then I'd break off and have my alone time later in the day. But in the end we spent the next 9 hours on the trail together. Good times.

John ascending the slabs, view west to Mt. Adams and the Santanoni Range

Eventually, the East River Trail heads north towards the Great Range and one must find and turn due east on the unmaintained herd path to Allen. There's no sign, but if you've done your homework it is easy enough to locate. The herd path continues on the flat for a while, then drops down in elevation slightly before the ascent begins as a comfortable incline through pleasant woods followed by steep climbing after the Allen Brook waterfall. Here one finds the dreaded red slime slabs for which Allen is known, and often reviled. There were definitely some hidden slime patches and I slipped and scraped my knee when socializing and therefore not paying close enough attention, lamenting that such a thing never happened to me when hiking solo. But the red slime was not that bad and the slabs were very dry and easy to cross. At one point, the trail becomes unclear and the ideal route is to hug the treeline to the left. We followed another hiker to the right and found ourselves needing to traverse the slab in a very precarious spot with a steep drop at our backs. We made it, but John's comment "I don't feel good about this," spoken while we traversed the slab, became the hilarious catch phrase of the day.

View to Marcy, Skylight, Haystack and Little Haystack from Allen east lookout

At the summit, we encounted a small group of 10 or so hikers strewn out at the summit sign and various lookout points. It was a very nice bunch of friendly, talkative folks and we took a quick lunch break together and conversed about our High Peak adventures. With blue skies, comfortable temps and no wind up top, I would have normally spent more time at the summit but my hiking buddy was rearing to go again in no time. This could have been my out to finish the day alone, but I was enjoying the companionship and we set out together to make a careful descent of the slabs and the long return to the parking lot, arriving back at the trail head at 5 p.m. All in all, Allen was a fun but grueling, 11 hour day covering 18+ miles. As we signed out at the trail register, John reminded me that this was his second trip up Allen, a peak that many 46ers lament as one of their least favorites but that he liked so much he wanted to pay another visit.

You know what? I would do it again, too.

Peak: Allen Mountain
Elevation: 4,340 feet (Gain: 3,740 feet)
Distance: 18 miles
Route: Out and back, East River Trail to Allen Mountain herd path
Conditions: Sunny, 40 degrees F
Notable Flora/Fauna: Hairy Woodpecker, Ruby-Crowned Kinglet

Mount Washington, September 9, 2025, Presidential Range, White Mountain National Forest

View to the Lion Head from Lawn Cut Off

Over the last few years, I've been revisiting the highest of the Presidential peaks via some of their lesser-known, lesser-used trails. Doing this in September, not in the busy summer months, has meant that I have had the approaches to Jefferson, Adams and Madison pretty much all to myself, something totally unheard of on the most direct-to-summit trails. This year, I wanted to see if I could also have a solo trail experience on my way to the most popular peak in the Whites -- Mount Washington.

Glen Boulder Approach

On a picture perfect hiking day with no clouds, no wind and cool, comfortable temperatures, I decided on a looping approach to the summit via the Glen Boulder Trail. The conditions would definitely bring out the hikers, but I surmised that few would take this longer, meandering route. I parked at the trail head for the Direttissima Trail located just south of Joe Dodge Lodge and was happy to see that I was the only car in the lot. Direttissima means "very direct" in Italian and is used quite often as a trail name in Italy, always signififying the most direct approach to a summit. On paper, the White Mountain Direttissima is indeed a straight shot trail meant to connect Joe Dodge Lodge with the Glen Boulder Trail, thereby allowing hikers to avoid a road walk on the highway. But straight doesn't mean easy. There are steep ups and downs the entire way. 

View to Mount Washington from Davis Path

Once on Glen Boulder Trail, the route climbs steeply and quickly out of the tree line and one is treated to views of the rugged, rocky terrain of Mount Washington and wide, sweeping views in all directions -- a visual feast that continues for hours. I spotted a soaring Peregrine Falcon here, which was pretty neat, and then paused in the shadow of the massive Glen Boulder for a short break to admire the views to the northeast of the Carters and Wildcats. The panoramic views on this trail are amazing and, as expected, nobody was on it. The trail even offers a reliable and picturesque spring, accessible down a well marked spur trail leading to a small, wooded glen. Knowing that I would have the summit buildings as a fill-up spot, I wasn't carrying much with me so I took advantage of the spring and filled up a Nalgene.

Appropriate Hang Out for a Mountain Dog

Glen Boulder Trail eventually connects to the Davis Path, which I took as far as the Lawn Cut Off leading north to the upper reaches of Tuckerman Ravine Trail. They call these wide open boulder fields above treeline "Lawns" and the route across this lawn was nothing but big rock hopping. At the intersection with Tuckerman Ravine Trail, I started to see the first other hikers of the day and then pressed on for more bouldering up to the summit. There, I encountered the usual Mount Washington madness -- lines of cars pulling into the parking lots from the autoroad, passenger vans of sightseers loading and unloading, and the whistle of the Cog Railroad as it came and left. I took my lunch break at the picnic table just below to the Tip Top House. There was scarcely a breeze on the summit, a rare thing indeed, so I took my time enjoying the views from various points. Due to the crowds, I didn't even bother going up to touch the summit marker.

View to the South from Top of Tuckerman Ravine Trail

I had designs on possibly continuing my loop hike over to Ball Crag and then down to the Alpine Garden and a descent via the Lion Head. My fatigue level said otherwise and I opted for a simple (relatively) descent all the way down the Tuckerman Ravine Trail. I stopped to chat with a few late departing hikers who were on their way up, but it was a remarkably quiet and lonely day on the most popular trail to Washington. Once at Joe Dodge Lodge, I grabbed a seat on one of the only free benches to have a quick rest before the short spur trail back to the Direttissima that leaves from the southernmost end of the lodge parking lot. Glancing down at the Suunto heart monitor watch connected to a chest strap that I had decided to wear on the hike, I saw that it read 3,716 calories burned. Marathon runners burn around 2,600-3,000.

Mount Washington ain't easy.

Peak: Mount Washington
Elevation: 6,288 feet (Gain: 4,819 feet)
Distance: 9.33 miles roundtrip
Route: Loop, The Direttissima to Glen Boulder Trail to Davis Path to Lawn Cut Off to Tuckerman Ravine Trail 
Conditions: Sunny, 35 degrees F
Notable Flora/Fauna: Peregrine Falcon, mountain cranberries

Mount Haystack, August 1, 2025, Eastern High Peaks, Adirondack Park

View to Gothics from Mount Haystack 

It's a five hour drive from our house to Keene Valley, "Home of the High Peaks." For this reason, we usually plan one or two week-long cabin stays in the ADK every year in order to get in as many hikes as we can. This tends to work better than just going up for long weekends, which can seem like you are spending more time in the car than on the trail. Having a full week also gives me a chance to monitor the weather and use certain conditions for 46er hikes and other conditions for shorter, lower elevation hikes. On a recent Saturday to Saturday stay, the weather finally turned perfect for high elevation hiking on our very last day. The problem -- I had already done a four-peak, 13-mile hike of Hough, South Dix, Grace and Macomb earlier in the week, plus early morning and midday hikes with K and R. All told, I had racked up over 35 miles and 7,000 feet of elevation gain in the first five days of our trip. I was tired and sore and found myself questioning if I had enough in the tank for one more peak.

All quiet at the JBL at 7 a.m.

Sometimes, one needs a bit of added motivation for a big day. For me, it came when I checked the calendar and saw that the date of that Friday was August 1, my dad's birthday. Nobody contributed more to me becoming a hiker than my dad. As soon as we could walk, my younger brother and I were out in the woods, usually with dad, sometimes on our own, exploring existing trails and charting new ones. Our first peak bagging experiences, it could be said, came at ages 6 and 4 on Marvin Mountain and Mount Nimham (my brother will get the joke 🤣). A city kid from New York, dad went all-in with nature in the 1970s, buying our childhood house in the woods upstate and joining his brother-in-law on hiking trips in places as far afield as New England and the Southwest. His love of hiking and the outdoors was infectious, and we learned to appreciate nature as he did. Dad died way back in 2004. I have no doubt that if he were still with us, he'd still be hitting the trails at age 83.

30-year-old NPC Sr., Appalachian Trail, Mount Cube, New Hampshire, 1973

Realizing that August 1, his birthday, was coinciding with one of our weeks in the ADK and was going to be a gorgeous, blue bird weather day, I took it as a collective sign that I needed to forget about fatigue and finally do a peak that had long been on my bucket list -- Mount Haystack. I'd had the route all planned out for some time. It would be a straight shot, out and back, from The Garden in Keene Valley via the Phelps Trail. I like hiking out of the Garden for one main reason -- Johns Brook Lodge. The presence of the lodge at a point 3.5 miles in means that you can start your day with empty water bottles and just fill up there. Saving that water weight makes for a quick and easy start to the day over comparatively easy terrain. The lodge also gives you a place to refill and rest on the way out. The hike up and back to Haystack is around 16 miles round trip, but if you don't count the 7 miles to and from the lodge, it's only a 9 mile hike. Piece of cake. At least that's what I told myself.

Slant Rock on Phelps Trail

Pulling into the Garden at 5:45 a.m., I got one of the last two parking spots (Phew!) and was on the trail at 6 a.m. sharp. As expected, I made quick work of the first leg and was at the JBL in just over an hour. After a second breakfast and water fill-up, I hit the trail again, this time with trekking poles since the route starts its rocky, root-ridden ascent here. I was pleased to have the Phelps Trail almost all to myself and only encountered three other hikers before reaching my turnoff to the State Range Trail. The highights in this section are a long, picturesque climb along a wooded spine-like ridge called a "Hogback," Bushnell Falls (accessible via a short spur), and Slant Rock, a huge shelter-affording boulder that served as a historical camping site. Almost immediately after the turn-off from Phelps Trail, the State Range Trail goes almost straight up, requiring the stowing of trekking poles and hand-over-hand climbing and root grabbing the whole way up. This steep climb brings you to the top of an unmarked mini-peak known as "Horse Hill," which has a rocky outcropping offering a striking view to the south of both Little Haystack and Haystack.

View to Little Haystack and Haystack from Horse Hill

From there, it is down and up, then down and up again to the summit of Mount Haystack. The hiking here is largely on open rocks, above tree line, with panoramic 360 views of the entire High Peaks Wilderness and beyond. There are absolutely no signs of civilization for as far as the eye can see. No roads, no towns, no summer homes, no power lines, no windmills. Nothing but nature. I spent a good amount of time admiring the vistas in all directions, picking out various peaks that I had visited in the past, and chatting with some of the many hikers who were doing the same. That's right. The peace and quiet of the trail ended up top since there were numerous groups and individuals coming and going from the Haystack summit. But I wouldn't have expected anything less.

On Little Haystack

I did want some alone time, so I backtracked to the less-busy summit of Little Haystack and took a longer break to look at the mountains and alpine vegetation some more and reflect on how great it is that my home state had the foresight to save this chunk of wilderness for future generations to enjoy. Most other hikers were planning to return via the State Range Trail over Basin and Saddleback. This worked out great for me as I again had the Phelps Trail all to myself for the long return to the JBL. As planned, I stopped there to finish up my food and fill up a 1/2 liter Nalgene for the last 3.5 miles back to the Garden.

I'm not gonna lie. I was hurting at the end of this epic 16+ miles of 4,000+ elevation gain over 9+ hours of trail time to the the third highest peak in New York State.

Now can I have a rest day?

Peak: Mount Haystack
Elevation: 4,915 feet (Gain: 4,443 feet)
Distance: 16.3 miles roundtrip
Route: Up and back, Phelps Trail to State Range Trail to Haystack Trail to State Range Trail to Phelps Trail
Conditions: Mostly sunny, 65 degrees F
Notable Flora/Fauna: American Goshawk, Boreal Chickadee